DIY Herb Garden

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I’ve wanted to have a vegetable garden for quite some time now. Lack of time is what stopped me before. Now that I have some (little) time on my hands, I thought this might be a good time to give it a shot. I waited a bit it to long though to work out all the plans for a full vegetable garden (building beds, planning what to plant and when, etc.) plus, I’m terrible at keeping plants alive (they need water, I’m not so good at remembering to give it to them) so, I thought an herb garden would be a safe place to start. So far so good, granted, it’s only been about a week, but we’re off to a good start.

I have a feeling the fact that I’m getting something out of keeping these plants alive, i.e. herbs for my cooking, is going to help me stay on track because so far I’m super excited about this little gem on my back deck. I’ve already used some of the herbs a couple of times and there is something very satisfying about walking out the back door and snipping off a few sprigs or leaves of whatever I need. Not to mention, so much less waste! I can’t tell you how often I buy a full bunch of parsley or cilantro and only need a couple tablespoons. The rest always ends up going to waste. Now I can just take what I need.

When I started making plans for the herb garden, I was on Pinterest looking for different planter ideas. There are tons of great ideas, for both indoor and outdoor, however many of them required building the planters. Not that I’m against building something…obviously…but the thought of building a planter then having to plant all the plants somehow seemed like a bit too much, especially for something that may or may not be dead by the end of summer. I wanted to keep this as simple as possible in case the inevitable happens. So, I started looking for planters that held multiple pots and remembered I had seen this one a few weeks prior.

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This is the Socker Plant Stand from Ikea, it holds 13 4″ pots and stands just over 5′ tall. The stand can pivot to be positioned at an angle or opened up completely and be straight from end to end. It comes in white or grey (which to me looks more like black in person). Unfortunately, this piece is not available online (sorry guys!) but can be picked up in store if you have an Ikea nearby. I chose these galvanized pots to complete the simple look I was going for.

The first thing I learned about container gardening while doing my research, is that your containers need to have good drainage. The galvanized pots I chose did not have any drainage holes, of course. Now, you could get around this by putting rocks in the bottom of the pot but these are small pots and I knew it would be pretty easy to just drill some holes in bottom. I used a 5/8″ drill bit and drilled 4 holes in each pot. You want the holes to be big enough that bark or larger chunks in the potting soil aren’t going to plug up the holes but small enough that soil isn’t going to easily flow out when watered I made sure to pot one plant and water to see that it worked well before drilling holes into the other 12 pots.

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The herb plants that I picked up were from Home Depot and they really make it super easy to plant. They are grown by Bonnie Plants, in biodegradable “pots” that can literally just be dropped into your container. Simply cut off the plastic liner around the top of the pot…

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The second thing I learned when researching container gardens is that you want to use a Potting Mix and NOT a Potting Soil. The reason being that potting mix is lighter weight, has fertilizer mixed in, promotes better drainage and absorbs moisture in the best way. Fill the bottom of your container with about an inch of soil…

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Peel the bottom of the biodegradable pot off the plant to allow the roots out. Place the plant in your container and fill remaining space with soil.

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I used a mixture of different herbs, just based on what I use more when cooking. Here is my assortment:
3 Cilantro
2 Parsley
2 Mint
2 Thyme
1 Sage
1 Rosemary
1 Oregano
1 Basil
I cook a lot with Cilantro so I wanted a few of those. Looking at it now, I should have done an additional Parsley because I’ve already used those plants a lot, but I only had 13 spots. I’ll have to see what happens throughout the season and adjust for next year. But, if this goes well, maybe my herb garden will be MUCH bigger next year 🙂

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To finish off, I made little “signs” for each pot to label which herb it held. I used new popsicle sticks (which you can get at a craft store year round or most grocery stores during summer months), dipped about 3/4 in black chalkboard paint, laid them on wax paper to dry and then used a white paint marker to write the name of the herb.

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I’m seriously so excited about this little addition to my yard. I’m already saving money at the grocery store and wasting less! I’ll keep you all updated on whether or not I can develop some green thumbs 🙂

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DIY Floating Shelves

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I am so excited to FINALLY share this project with you all! I have been working on it for what feels like forever. Wait…you mean…having a baby will drastically change the amount of time in the day you have to accomplish things?!?! Case in point, I’ve been trying to write this blog post for 3 days now 🙂

When I started placing the furniture in the nursery, I knew I wanted this corner to be the “play” corner or the area for all the toys. Landon already owns quite a few books so a book shelf seemed like the way to go but I also wanted room for some sort of toy box (a post on that to come in the future) so shelves up on the wall were necessary for space. Enter the DIY Floating Shelves from Shanty 2 Chic. If you haven’t checked out their site before and you enjoy DIY building, check them out. If you’ve ever searched for DIY building projects on Pinterest, chances are you’ve come across some of their work. Their projects are always really well explained and the plans are very detailed.

I did make some adjustments to the original plans because the plans called shelves that were 3.5′ in either direction and I only had room for 2′. So, my plans are for 2′ long corner shelves and the materials listed are enough for 3 shelves. If you follow the plans on Shanty 2 Chic, their plans are for 3.5′ shelves and the materials listed are for 1 shelf so make sure you double or triple the amount of wood depending on how many shelves you want.

So, here we go…step by step 🙂

Supplies
NOTE: Before purchasing the wood, see the note in step 6 regarding the 2×4 and 1×6 boards

3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
2 – 1/4″ x 24″ x 48″ plywood
2 – 1″ x 10″ x 8′
2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′
kreg jig for pocket holes
drill
2 1/2″ pocket screws
nail gun
1 1/4″ brad nails
3″ screws (torx or dry wall, whatever you prefer, these will be to screws the support boards to the wall and into a stud)
stud finder
wood glue
paint
hardware (for decorative purposes, I’ll show you what I used when I get to that part below)

Step 1: You will need to determine the height placement of each shelf. You want to think about what you are going to put on the shelves and how much space you need in between each one. I wanted my shelves to take up the majority of the corner and knew I was going to be putting some taller items and books on them so here are the measurements I used…
Floor to ceiling, the room is 96″ tall. Each shelf is approximately 4.5″ tall. Based on that, I measured out equal spacing from ceiling to the top shelf, between each shelf, and from bottom shelf to the floor, which was 20.5″.
Ceiling
20.5″
Shelf #1: 4.5″
20.5″
Shelf #2: 4.5″
20.5″
Shelf #3: 4.5″
20.5″
Floor

You will also want to locate the studs in your wall and mark those as well as you will drill each wall cleat directly into a stud.

Step 2: Build your wall cleats.
Using the 2″ x 4″ x 8′, make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 2′ (long wall cleat)
3 pieces @ 1′ 10 1/2″ (short wall cleat)
12 pieces @ 7 5/8″ (cleat braces)

When constructing each wall cleat, you will use one long wall cleat, one short wall cleat and 4 cleat braces, 2 1/2″ pocket screws and wood glue.
Using a kreg jig, drill for 2 1/2″ pocket screws into one end of each cleat brace then attach the cleat braces to the cleats as shown. I didn’t measure the placement of the cleat braces, just lined up the wall cleats (long wall cleat against the corner, short wall cleat against the long wall cleat) and then marked where the cleat braces should go so that they just met each other at the corner edge. The other two cleat braces went at the opposite ends of the wall cleats.

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Step 3: Attach wall cleats to the wall
Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the 3″ screws. Line up a wall cleat where you want it and drill a pilot hold into the wall cleat directly over the stud, check for level. Using the 3″ screws, attach the wall cleat to the wall in at least 2 different points.

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Step 4: Attach bottom panels to braces
You are basically going to wrap the braces in wood to build out your shelf. Using the 1/4″ plywood, make the following cuts (I made the cuts at home but if you don’t have a saw, you can ask some in the lumber department to make the cuts for you)
3 pieces @ 23 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ (long bottom panel)
3 pieces @ 14″ x 9 1/4″ (short bottom panel)
Use a wood glue, a nail gun and 1/4″ brad nails to attach 1 long bottom panel and 1 short bottom panel to each set of braces.

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Step 5: Attach top panel to braces
Using the 1″ x 10″ x 8′ make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 23 1/4″ (long top panel)
3 pieces @ 14″ (short top panel)
Attach 1 long top panel and 1 short top panel to each set of braces using wood glue, 1 1/4″ finish nails and a nail gun.

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Step 6: Attach the side trim
Using the 1″ x 6″ x 8′ make the following cuts
6 pieces @ 4 1/2″ x 9 1/4″ (side front trim)
NOTE: Because 2×4 are used for the wall cleats, it requires the front and side trim to be only 4 1/2″ wide which is not a width you can buy and will have to rip the board down to 4 1/2″. Again, you can have them do it for you in the lumber department. If you have a table saw at home then you can do it yourself. The other option would be to use 2″ x 3″ for the walls cleats instead of 2″ x 4″. By using 2″ x 3″, you will not need to alter the width of the 1″ x 6″ boards.
Attach side front trim pieces using the same method, wood glue, a nail gun and 1 1/4″ finish nails.

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Step 7: Attach front trim pieces
Using the remaining 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards, make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 14 3/4″ x 4 1/2″
3 pieces @ 14″ x 4 1/2″
Attach using the same method, wood glue, a nail gun and 1 1/4″ finish nails

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Step 8: Finish with paint and decorate!
I used wood filler to fill in nail holes and the seams. Once dried, I went over the wood filler with 180 grit sand paper to smooth it out.

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I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in A La Mode to finish the shelves, topped with clear wax, and sanded the edges for a roughed up look.

Finally, I added some hardware to the corners to give the shelves a bit of an industrial look to compliment some of the other pieces in the nursery.

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I used metal corner braces similar to these from Lowes, and furniture tacks to attach them, spray painted all the pieces with black matte finish spray paint and roughed them up with some sand paper before attaching.

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That’s that! Then I decorated 🙂

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DIY Blanket Ladder

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Can we talk about the LIFE-CHANGING discovery I made a couple weeks ago. It was an average night, we had just eaten dinner and were sitting on the couch when the inevitable conversation came up…”Did you get anything for dessert?” my husband asks…
I hadn’t…fail.
Me: “No, but there is still vanilla ice cream in the freezer from Thanksgiving pie”
Husband: “Do we have anything to put on it?”
In case you can’t tell, I’m not good at keeping my fridge/pantry/cupboards stocked with the basics. I’m the type who goes to the store and buys just what I need for that nights dinner.
Me: “There are some leftover chocolate chips in the cupboard…”
Husband: “Can you melt them?”
We have really interesting conversations 🙂
I proceed to melt the leftover chocolate chips, dish up some ice cream and then drizzle the chocolate on top. Basic, right?
Umm…it hardened pretty quickly just like magic shell, but I hadn’t added anything to it! Is this normal?!?! Mic drop! I was so excited!! That’s the easiest dessert ever!
I’m not sure why I was so excited, apparently it doesn’t take much these days. Anyway, I was pretty stoked about this discovery, and please don’t burst my bubble if I’m like 10 years late to the party and you all knew this fact long ago.

You may recognize this blanket ladder from a couple years ago if you’ve been following me from the start…wow, that’s crazy, that I’ve been at this blogging thing for a couple years now! Since my time is a bit preoccupied these days and I haven’t had time to complete any new projects recently, I thought I’d repost one of my faves and one of the easiest, who knows, maybe you know someone that this would make a great holiday gift for. Or maybe you just want one for yourself. Either way, this whole project took me less than hour from constructing to stained.

Supplies
2 2×4 @ 8ft
1 2×6 @ 8ft
2″ wood screws
skill saw
kreg jig
drill

1. Use your skill saw to make the following cuts
2 2×4 cut to 5ft each
4 2×6 cut to 17in each

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2. Use your kreg jig to drill 4 pocket holes (2 on each end) into the 4 2×6 pieces for 2″ wood screws

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3. Lay one of the 2x4s on flat, level ground. The left side of the 2×4 will be the front of your ladder. Measure and mark every 12″ along the front of the ladder where your rungs will sit. Take one of the 2x6s and set it on the 2×4, turned slightly diagonal, so that the bottom of the 2×6 is even with the front of your ladder and the top of the 2×6 is even with the back of the ladder. Attach with 2″ wood screws.

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4. Continue with the other 3 2x6s at each of the 12″ marks.

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5. Once you’ve attached all 2x6s, measure and mark every 12″ on the other 2×4, lay it on flat, level ground and turn the ladder over onto the 2×4 so that the rungs meet up with the opposite side and attach with 2″ wood screws.

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Easy peasy! Now paint or stain to your desired color, let dry and add blankets!

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DIY Greenery Crown

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We had our maternity photos done 2 weeks ago and I am beyond thrilled with how they turned out! Of course, they were shot by my good friend, Janine, of Janine Soltman Photography, and we shot them at Kruger’s Farm on Sauvie Island. I will do a full post of all the gorgeous photos soon, but this post is all about the eucalyptus crown that I made and wore for some of the photos. I tend to see things on Pinterest and get these ideas in my head of what I want. I ended up not wearing the crown for most of the shoot but I did love how it turned out. Using eucalyptus made the crown pretty big and full, if you wanted a thinner and not so “drapey” look (drapey…is that a thing?) you could easily substitute different greenery and you can add in flowers as well. The possibilities are endless!

Supplies
greenery or flowers of your choice
green floral tape
24 gauge floral wire
scissors
ribbon of your choice

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Step 1: Use the wire to create a circular crown, measuring it to the head of whoever is going to wear it. Don’t measure it too tight as it will get a bit tighter after adding greens, flowers and tape. Layer the wire 3 times, cut the wire and twist loose end around the crown to secure the wire in place. Then use floral tape to secure this area of the crown to maintain the correct size. Note: If you haven’t used floral tape, it is not a normal sticky tape. This is a paper tape that sticks to itself when it is stretched and pressed together.

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Step 2: Begin to build the crown. Cut small pieces of greenery or flowers, with the stem being about 1 1/2″ long. Use one piece of greenery or flower along the wire crown, hold stem with one hand and attach with floral tape with the other hand. Wrap the floral tape until the length of the stem is covered. Choose your next stem, lay it in place to that the bloom or leaves sit where you want it to and repeat wrapping the stem to the wire until it is covered. I alternated a stem of leaves and stem of buds to get the mixed and layered look.

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Continue adding greens or florals until the entire crown is covered. When you get towards the end, you will have to be a bit careful to attach the tape in between some of the first stems you attached. Go slowly so you don’t break any stems and weave the tape in between.

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Step 3: If you’d like, you can finish the look by adding ribbons to the back of the crown. Depending on what greens or florals used, this could look too busy but I simply tied them in one spot so it is easy to change your mind and remove the ribbons if you end up not liking it.

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I used a basic ivory lace ribbon and an ivory sheer chiffon ribbon and cut 2 long strips of each. I very simply, tied them in a single knot on the back side (or what would become the back side) of the crown. Once all pieces of ribbon are attached, cut the ribbon at different lengths to give it some texture.

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DIY Spa Bathtub Tray

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I’ve been wanting to do this project for a while. Especially because I’ve been spending so much more time in the bathtub these last few months. I wanted the spa-like relaxation but, truth be told, I also wanted a place to set my laptop so I could get some blog work done while I’m unwinding. And, after baby comes, it’ll be a handy place to set my wine glass too…can’t wait for wine again!

This project was SO quick and easy. I think it took maybe an hour total. It should be pretty easy to customize it to your own bathtub since the measurements are so minimal.

Supplies
Pine Project Board
(To find the size that best fits your bathtub, you’ll need to measure across the top of your tub and keep in mind you’ll need a few extra inches in length for it to hang over to attach some “feet” to help hold it in place. As far as the width, that can just be your preference. I used a 1″ thick x 12″ wide x 48″ long board, linked above. I wanted plenty of width for my laptop as well as all the pretty bath supplies I was about to buy)
1×2 pine board
(This is for the feet, the length you need will depend on how wide you main plank board is. Example, my board was 12″ wide so I needed 24″ of 1″x2″ board to trim out the sides of my tray)
handles
(You don’t have to add handles to your tray but it’s a nice decorative touch. You can get simple drawer pulls at any hardware store or if you want something with a little more style, World Market, Hobby Lobby and Anthropologie are great places to look. I got mine at Anthropologie and linked them above)
jigsaw
wood glue
1 1/4″ finish nails
measuring tape
pencil
drill and drill bits (if you are adding handles)
paint color of your choice

Step 1: Measure the exact width of your plank board and cut 2 pieces of the 1×2 pine board to that length

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Step 2: Lay your pine board across the top of your bathtub, place one of the cut 1×2 pieces up against one side of the tub, flush with the edge of the pine board. Hold the pine board in place, hold a piece of 1×2 against the side of the tub (on the opposite side) then use a pencil the mark a cut line on the pine board. Cut the pine board along the cut line.
Step 3: Attach the 1×2 “feet” to the pine board, flush with the edges using wood glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails on the underside.

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Step 4: Drill holes for handles. Choose a drill bit that is just slightly larger than the screws on your handles. Choose the location for your handles, I placed mine so they would sit just inside the edge of the tub.

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Step 5: Paint in color of your choice and distress. I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in A La Mode then sanded the edges slightly with 150 grit sandpaper.
Step 6: place across your tub and add all your favorite bath supplies

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I’ve always loved Anthropologie but lately I’ve been extra obsessed with all their home décor, especially their candles and giftable items. I knew they had a cute little bath & body care area so I decided to look there to stock up on supplies for this project. The brands are a little spendier than say Target, however the packaging, quality and scents are incredible and well worth the money for this type of thing…in my opinion. Here are links to all the products I purchase…

Barr-Co Original Scent Bath Salts
Barr-Co Bubble Elixir
Mediterranean Sea Silk Sponge
Baudelaire Cedar Bath Brush
Voluspa Glass Maison Candle in Bourbon Vanille

Hope you enjoy your swanky spa space as much as I’m enjoying mine!

DIY Vintage Scoreboard

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Nesting has officially set in…I’m feeling to pressure of the timeline and that this little munchkin is only 14 weeks away. Man…when I write it down like that, it seems even closer! I really haven’t done much in the nursery yet other than getting the crib, a light fixture (which is currently sitting on the floor) and some wood blinds (also not installed, still in the box). Next big focuses are the closet and changing table before I really start to decorate. I have been trying to wait until after all the baby showers. Yes, I said “all the baby showers”. This is one lucky little baby, there are 3 showers lined up over the next 4 weeks to help celebrate him. I’ve been holding myself back from buying too much until after the showers but it’s getting so hard. I just want to start buying stuff off my own registry and feel settled in the room and ready!!

As you might be able to tell from this project, we are going with a vintage sports theme in the nursery. I have never been big on themes so it will be subtle with just a few sports touches, we’ll see how it evolves throughout the decorating process. One thing I did know, I wanted a vintage looking scoreboard hanging somewhere in the room after seeing some online. This is what I came  up with. I didn’t map out the measurements beforehand and it wasn’t big enough for what I initially had planned (a baseball scoreboard that had 5 lines of writing and numbers) but I quickly decided that wasn’t going to fit. The design changed a bit as I started painting the words, especially after writing the first line so big…Landon Stadium…anyone catch on there? 🙂

I’m thinking this will hang above the crib and I’m so excited to see how it looks with the crib bedding I picked out!!

Supplies
1″ x 24″ x 48″ stain grade pine panel
3 1″ x 2″ x 4′ pine board
furniture nails (color or finish of your choice)
3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ wood rectangles
paint colors of your choice (see below to find my choices)
paint brushes, one medium for overall color, one small for lettering
120 grit sand paper
wood glue
1 1/4″ finish nails
measuring tape
pencil
jigsaw

Step 1:
I started with this pine panel and 3 of the 4 foot pine boards for the trim

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Step 2:
Paint the pine panel with your base color. I used Heirloom Traditions Chalk Paint in Naval. You don’t need to get the edges perfectly as these will be covered by the trim board in step 3. After painting the pine panel, I painted the inside edge of the trim boards with my paint trim color, Heirloom Traditions Chalk Paint in A La Mode, before attaching the trim boards to I didn’t have to worry about painting the edge next to the blue once it was already attached.

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Step 3:
Measure one long edge of the pine panel from end to end and cut 1 trim board to that length. Attach the trim board using wood glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails making sure the edges are flush. Do the same on the opposite long edge. Now measure the distance exactly between the 2 trim boards on the shorter edge and cut the trim board to fit snug between them. Do the same on the opposite short edge. All edges should be flush and smooth. Once attached, you can finish painting the front and outside edges of the trim.

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Step 4:
Paint the wood rectangles with the paint of your choice. I used Valspar Chalkboard Paint to create a vintage chalkboard look. Once dried, I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand and rough up the edges and front of each square.

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Step 5:
Distress the scoreboard and hand paint letters and numbers! I wanted the base of the scoreboard to look a bit weathered. On the main panel, over the blue I used Heirloom Traditions Patina with a dry brush. Using a tiny bit of patina in the lid of the paint jar, a paint brush and a dry cloth, lightly tap the paint brush in the patina, then dab the brush on the dry cloth before lightly brushing it on the wood surface. Using another dry cloth, blend the patina by rubbing the cloth over the wood surface.
On the white trim edges, I used Heirloom Traditions Soft Wax in Muddy Pond to create a worn look. After applying the wax with a dry brush, I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand the surface and edges.
Finally, I hand painted the lettering on the scoreboard and the numbers on the wood squares using A La Mode and 1/2″ flat paint brush. I decided how many rows of lettering I wanted, measured the whole panel and used a pencil to draw lines for each row. I penciled in the letters for a visual before I started so I had an idea of spacing but other than that just kind of winged it. I wanted it to look raw and natural so don’t worry too much about the letters looking perfect. If you need to, you can always use a stencil.

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Step 6:
Attach the wood squares using the furniture nails. There are many different colors and finishes available in these at Lowe’s. I chose the Nickle finish. I also used the Muddy Pond soft wax over all the lettering and numbering, then went over each with the sandpaper one more time to give the letters and numbers a faded look.

Also, sidenote…my crib is from Wayfair.com. And I am OBSESSED! I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted in White…of course…so I bought this Viv + Rae Rocco Kokopelli Convertible Crib, painted it white and distressed it. I love the shutter look on the end panels!! And it was on CRAZY sale for only $177!

Can’t wait to get the part of the nursery all put together!! I’ll share photos as they come 🙂 Happy Friday everyone!

DIY Flower Basket Stand

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Happy belated Mother’s Day to all the amazing, hard-working mamas out there! I hope you all enjoyed a day of relaxation, pampering and spending quality time with your kiddos.

I started this project as something completely different…I was searching for DIY floor lamp ideas and came across a flower pot stand idea on Pinterest instead. My goal was to make it and post the instructions in time for you all to make it yourself, possibly for a Mother’s Day gift, however, my morning sickness got in the way 😦

I’m at 16 weeks now and my mornings are getting more and more difficult by the day. I wake up every single morning with a headache that has been lasting about 2 hours before I get rid of it enough to function and for the last couple days, intense joint pain in my hips is actually waking me up early in the morning. Anyone else have this? I feel like it’s so early to be having hip/joint pain already. My hope is that I just pushed myself a bit too hard with all the retail chaos of Mother’s Day shopping. I was running around quite a bit more than usual from Friday-Sunday. I used my pregnancy pillow last night and for the first time, woke up today without a headache! Woohoo!! (This could also be because I ate a very late dinner) However, the pillow did nothing for the joint pain. Let’s hope taking it easy for few days will help.

So this flower basket stand was super easy, it’s made out of an old floor lamp and a metal hanging basket. And other than dry time for the spray paint, I think the whole thing took me an hour to put together!

Supplies
old floor lamp
drill and drill bits
block of 1×6″ scrap wood
1″ self drilling screws
20″ metal hanging basket with fiber liner (remove hanging chains from basket)
a few inches 1/2″ copper plated steel tab tape
3/4″ self drilling screws
spray paint in color of your choice
potting soil and plants of your choice

Step 1:
I started with this lamp that I got for $20 at a thrift store

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Step 2:
Remove the glass bowl, light bulb and electrical fixture from the lamp. (The electrical fixture should come out by unscrewing it from the base and you’ll be able to pull a bit of the cord out throught the top of the lamp). Using wire cutters, cut the electrical cord away from the electrical fixture. You should now be able to pull the electrical cord from the  bottom of the lamp until it is completly removed.

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Step 3:
Using a drill and a drill bit just slightly larger than the threaded post of your screws, you will drill a hole on 4 sides at the top of the lamp post, holes should be evenly spaced apart. (Note: the larger hole is from the lamp switch, not from drilling)

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Step 4:
Using a piece of scrap wood (mine was a piece of 1×6 board but to about 8″), turn the lamp post upside down and center it on the scrap wood. Attach the lamp post to the wood using 1″ self drilling screws. You may want a helper for this step as the lamp post may not sit evenly and stay upright while you are drilling.

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Step 5:
Using the copper plated steel tab tape, you will attach the wire hanging basket to the wood. Turn the post back over so it is standing upright, scrap wood facing up. Set the wire basket on top of the wood, centered. Cut a piece of tab tape long enough to weave through some of the basket wires and still attached the tab tape to the wood with 3/4″ self drilling screws. As you are attaching the tab tape, you should be pulling it or holding it down tightly so the basket is secure and not loose enough to move.

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Step 6:
Use your spray paint to paint the lamp base, wood and hardware in your desired color and allow to dry according to directions on the can. Once dried, add the fiber liner to the metal basket.

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Step 7:
Plant your basket!! Again, be aware that your basket stand may be top heavy. Mine was a bit unsteady so I was very careful when planting and because it was so tall (mine stands about 7 feet tall without plants), I had to plant it while standing  a few stairs above the stand. I was also worried about the stand blowing over in the wind so I used wired to attach the stand to a post on my deck to hold it in place.

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I used an ornamental grass, 3 geraniums and 3 bacopa plants to dress up my basket, as well as an outdoor flat black spray paint on the base. I love this planter so much, I think I’m going to make a few others to match it!

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DIY Faux Floral Centerpiece

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I have been waiting and waiting and waiting for my Magnolia Market purchases to show up and THEY FINALLY ARRIVED!! I ordered 5 of these faux paper white bulbs as well as the faux magnolia leaf wreath that I hung on my wooden spool clock.

I think by now, you all know that I don’t do real plants anymore. I just can’t seem to keep them alive, so why waste the money? So now, I’m constantly on the hunt for authentic looking faux florals and plants to liven up my home. I had seen Joanna Gaines use these paper white bulbs on a few episodes of Fixer Upper so I went in search of where to buy them. What do you know, they are from Magnolia Market. Except now I have a big problem. I want everything that they sell!

Supplies
planter box
dry floral foam
faux floral bulbs
dry moss

1. To create the centerpiece, I started with the DIY Planter Box that I posted last fall.

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2. Next, I used dry floral foam to create a base to stick the bulbs in. You don’t need to glue to floral foam down, just cut it with a knife to the size of your planter  box. I would also leave a little space on the sides as well as make sure the foam sits below the top edge of the box, that way your moss covering won’t be overflowing and can squish into the sides to stay in place a bit.

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3. These are the faux paper white bulbs I used from Magnolia Market. They have nice thick stakes on the bottom so you can easily insert them into the floral foam.

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4. So, I stuck the bulbs in the foam and then added the moss around the bulbs, however, learn from my mistakes…if I did it again, I would layer the moss on top of the foam and then insert the bulbs over the moss. This will also help to hold the moss in place a bit. Move the bulb “roots” to the side before you put the bulbs in the foam so that they stick out through the moss.

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And just for fun…a few shots of my new wreath!!

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DIY T.V. Stand

I’m back!!! It has been SO long since I’ve posted! I’m so happy to be back and have all sorts of great content planned for the next few weeks.

Since I’ve been gone, hubby and I went to Hawaii on a little getaway. The trip was absolutely INCREDIBLE and we fell in love with the island of Kauai, so much so, that we didn’t want to come home.

Is it possible that vacation withdrawals are a real thing? Because I’m pretty sure I had them…severely…once we got back, I just could not get motivated to get back into my normal day-to-day routine.

I am beginning to get back on track. Starting with my latest project! A DIY industrial pipe T.V. stand for our guest bedroom.

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I decided on this style of shelf for a few reasons…
1) Our guest room is not huge, more so because of the huge bed I put in there, so I wanted a piece of furniture that was pretty narrow
2) There are a lot of weird angles in this room as well so there were not a lot of spots to place a t.v. stand in conjunction with the bed placement
3) Due to the size and weird angles, there is not a lot of room for furniture other than a nightstand and this t.v. stand so I also wanted it to be able to hold some décor to dress up the room.

So, this is what I came up with! This is also the first time that I really made a piece of furniture from scratch, with no building plan or instructions. There was certainly some trial and error involved, as well as multiple trips to Lowes.

A couple of notes on this furniture piece. For the cast iron pipe, I used all 3/4″ diameter pipe, this pipe is also available in 1/2″ and 1″ diameter, if you want the frame slimmer or bulkier. The overall measurements are 82″H x 55″W x 18″D.

Supplies
6 floor flange fittings

 4 4″ black pipe
6 closed nipple fitting
20 tee fitting
8 12″ black pipe
2 48″ black pipe
8 18″ black pipe
2 30″ black pipe
2 24″ black pipe
2 black iron cap
4 2″ black pipe
2 90 degree elbow fitting
4 1″x 12″x 8′ whitewood boards cut to 55″ long
1 can matte black spray paint
stain of your color choice to stain boards

Step 1: Build the base. Use 4 floor flange fittings as the feet and space them about 50″ apart across the width and about 1 foot apart through the depth. To the 2 front feet, you are going to add a 4″ black pipe on each side. To the 2 back feet, you are going to add a closed nipple fitting to each side, followed by a tee fitting on each side (with tee edge pointing toward the opposite back foot), and then 2 more nipple fittings on top of each tee.

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Step 2: Add crossbar. Take 1 48″ pipe and attach to the two back feet by screwing one end into one of the tee fittings you just attached. The trick to getting the crossbars attached is to screw them all the way into 1 side, then join the other end into to opposite side tee fitting. You slightly unscrew the first side in order to attach to the opposite side. Each end will be halfway screwed into each tee fitting but should still feel secure. If it doesn’t feel secure, try screwing and unscrewing again. It took me a couple tries but if it’s done right, you should reach a point where the cross bar fits well into each tee fitting.

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Step 3: Add shelf bracket. Using 4 tee fittings, attach to each foot with tee edge facing back to front or front to back. Then using the same method used to attach 48″ crossbar, do the same with 2 12″ pipes to create a spot on each end for the boards to sit, forming the shelves. (See same picture above for reference)

Step 4: Construct second level shelf. Attach 4 18″ pipes to each corner creating the level between shelf 1 and 2. Repeat step 3 to create the bracket for shelf 2.

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Step 5: Construct third level shelf. Repeat step 4 to create the bracket for shelf 3.

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Step 6: Construct fourth level shelf (taller space for t.v. to sit). Use 2 30″ pipe and attach to 2 front legs. Use 2 24″ pipe and attach to 2 back legs. On back legs, repeat step 2 to attach another crossbar for stability. Attach 2 tee fittings to back legs, tee edges facing each other. Add 2 4″ pipe on top of tee fittings to back legs. Use 1 48″ pipe, attach to the tee fittings as the crossbar.

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Step 7: Add top shelf bracket. Repeat step 3 to add fourth and final shelf.

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Step 8: Add top finishing touches! Use 2 closed nipple fittings, add to front legs. Finish front two legs with 2 cap fittings. On back to legs, add 2 2″ pipes, followed by 2 90 degree elbow fittings (elbow edge pointed toward back side of unit), followed by 2 more 2″ pipes and finished with 2 floor flanges. The floor flange will sit flush against the wall and you will attach the unit to the wall with screws for more stability.

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Step 9: Stain or paint your shelves, attach the frame to a wall and place shelves on brackets. Now decorate!! Note: I did not attach the shelves to the pipe in anyway. To be honest, I’m not sure what the best way to do this would be. For now, I don’t have little ones that I need to worry about pulling on the boards, but if I decide to figure out how to attach the shelves I will certainly update you.

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Top Posts of 2015

Happy New Year everyone! Is it lame that it’s New Years Eve and I’m at home, on the couch, in sweatpants, blogging…?

I just couldn’t bring myself to want to go out tonight. It’s freezing cold outside, I’m still not completely over my cold from Christmas and let’s face it…I’m a little lazy these days.

I can not believe 2015 is already over. It seems like it was just yesterday that I was sitting down planning all the things I wanted to do with the blog for the year. Real life certainly got in the way of my plans. My new years resolution is to be more organized and plan all the tasks I need to accomplish this year. I tend to be very spontaneous with my projects…”I feel like starting on the backyard deck today”…works on it for 2-3 days, realizes what a HUGE job it is, has to go back to real job the next day, then slowly gets a few feet done at a time, total projects lasts months. Oops! My goal over the next two months is to finish the handful of projects that are halfway done in the house right now…painting the kitchen cabinets, changing the stairs over from carpet to hardwood, crown molding in the upstairs, finally make the matching benches for the farmhouse table. I’m tired just thinking about it! I got my cute Sugar Paper 2016 planner from Target today and I’m ready to take on the year with BIG goals ahead of me!

Cheers to you all! Thank you for all your love and support this year. Be safe tonight and enjoy a look back at the top posts of 2015!

1. Industrial Pipe Desk

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2. Blanket Ladder

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3. Inspired by…home of Joanna Gaines

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4. Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups

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5. DIY Yard Yahtzee

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6. Wooden Spool Clock

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7. Wire Basket Nightstand

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8. Inspired by…accent walls

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9. Squash Egg-In-The-Hole

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10. Bacon Roasted Brussel Sprouts

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