Landon’s “Wild One” Birthday

I thought I jump on here while Landon is napping to share what has been keeping me so busy this last week. Our little guy turned 1, so naturally, I had to throw a party. Granted, this was more of a party for the grown ups than for the kids as there were only 5 kids there…oops. But, after our first year as parents, I think all parents deserve a party 🙂

Like everything, I always turn to Pinterest for inspiration and found a few cute themes for a first birthday, but ended up going with Where The Wild Things Are or Wild One. I had actually planned on doing a few other things than what is pictured here but because I ALWAYS procrastinate, I ran out of time for a few projects.

Anyway, the party was so much fun, Landon was such a trooper and had fun the entire time. A huge thank you to all our friends and family who came to help us celebrate this little guy. It’s been one wild year and we wouldn’t have it any other way!

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“Welcome to my party!” 🙂 This kid! His crown was a little floppy AND the fur trim came off because I used iron-on adhesive instead of sewing it…fail. So, we switched to a different crown later that I had order off Amazon. (You’ll see that in the cake smash photos). His onsie was just a plain white one that I added an iron-on transfer to. He also had a tail made from the same fur as the trim on the crown, sadly, we never really got a good photo of it.

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I set up this little area for the kids to play in. Teepee and rug are from Target. Chalkboard sign is from Michael’s and says “Let’s make mischief of one kind or another!”. Banners are both blank banners from Target. On the Wild One banner, I just used a black sharpie on the letters and in the same felt I used for Landon’s crown, I cut out little crowns and used wood glue to attach them to the wood banner pieces.

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This is probably why I didn’t get as many little projects done as I had planned on. I spent a few hours, at least 4, working on this guy. I love it though, it was a fun way to let everyone know a little more about the birthday boy. I already had the chalkboard door, this was a DIY I did a while ago. You can see that post here.

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 I have to give a HUGE shout out to my sister and my mom for getting all the food ready the day of the party, while I was running around doing other things. Food at parties always stresses me out and I always wind up wishing I’d had it catered. But, it turned out great thanks to my helpers!

I tried to keep the menu pretty simple because of the timing of the party, late afternoon to early evening and tried to come up with fun names for the food that went with the theme of the party. Some of the names were a stretch :). We served veggie sticks (Veggie Vines) with dip (Wild Thing Dip), fresh fruit (Speared Fruit), goat cheese rolled in chopped chives (Mossy Rocks), Party Mix w/Goldfish crackers (Fish Food) and Ham & Cheese Sliders (Wolf Biscuits). The Ham & Cheese Sliders are amazing, by the way, and I always use this recipe from The Girl Who Ate Everything.

The tree trunk plaques I used as serving platters are from Michaels and the chalkboard food signs are from Target.

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The desserts (and Landon’s cake smash) were probably my favorite part of the whole party. I did not make these! No way! I went searching for a custom cake shop in the area and came across Laurie Clarke Cakes in Wilsonville and you guys…AMAZING! I felt so silly when I messaged her because #1 – that party was 1 week away (me the procrastinator…remember?) and #2 – I wasn’t entirely sure what I wanted, just had a photo of the smash cake and pretty much just said “here’s what I like, do what you can”. I know…who am I? But this is what she came up with!!!! So perfect and SO delicious! If you are in the Portland area and need cakes, cupcakes, cake pops, use Laurie…you won’t be sorry!

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Just a couple little touches…bubbles to keep the kids occupied. Just used little white craft bags from Michaels and printed labels on the computer that said “A trick to tame the wild things”. I also got Landon a copy of Where The Wild Things Are and had party guests write a little note to him. A fun reminder for him to look back on one day.

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We ended the evening by singing happy birthday and letting Landon go to town on his smash cake. It was pretty cute, he would get a hand full of frosting, put it in his mouth, and then look around as everyone laughed at him. Then, repeat 🙂

Such a fun evening. And I would do it all again. Just maybe not procrastinate so much next time 😉

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DIY Toy Box

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I think I officially have a toddler. I mean, when I spend the entire day either chasing the little munchkin or saying “No, Landon…no, no, no….Landon, that’s not to play with” that equals toddler, right?!?! When he first learned what the word “no” meant, he would usually stop whatever behavior I was saying no to. Now, he is testing the limits and repeating the behavior, over and over and over. The latest, picking food up off his high chair tray, holding his food-filled fist for me to see and dropping it while I tell him not to drop the food. Big heavy sigh.

Once Landon turned 4 months, we started accumulating toys at rapid pace so I needed a place to store them. I started searching for toy boxes and toy storage. There were some cute options out there but not a lot that really went with his nursery or my décor style. Baskets would have been the best option if I had a big shelving unit to store them on, but, space in the nursery was becoming limited.

I came across this unfinished wood toy box on Wayfair and decided to customize it to fit the style of the room.

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I painted the toy box white with Heirloom Traditions A La Mode chalk paint, 3 coats total, and then used DIY Big Top Aftershow top coat. I followed it up with a light sanding on the edges with 180 grit sandpaper.

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Next, I decided to add a padded seat to the top of the toy box. I added the hinges to the lid so that I could cut and attach the padding and fabric around them. Lay out your fabric on the ground (design side down), making sure that if you are using fabric with a pattern, you pay attention to the placement and angle of the pattern. Next, lay out a piece of 1″ foam on top of the fabric followed by the lid placed upside down on top of the foam. At this point, you can cut the foam and the fabric to the appropriate dimensions. Leave a 1″ border of foam around the toy box lid. Leave a 2″ border between the fabric and foam to allow for folding the edges over and attaching with staples.

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To attach the padding and fabric, I folded the edge of the fabric over on itself, the folded the remaining edge of the fabric over the foam and toy box lid, securing it with staples and my electric staple gun. When you are securing the fabric, work on one side at a time and secure only to within 2″ of each corner so that the fabric at the corners is loose. You are going to make some cuts and folds in order to tuck the corner fabric in. Also, when securing the fabric on the hinge side, staple everywhere except at the hinges, leaving the fabric loose there as well.

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To secure corners, you want to cut away the extra layers of fabric that were folded under, leaving only 1 layer of fabric. Take the tip of fabric at the corner, fold it over the lid and secure with a staple. You should now have loose fabric on either side of the corner. On each side, you will fold and roll the fabric under itself at an angle so that when you bring the two sides together they will meet at the corner. Secure with staples.

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To secure fabric around hinges, again, cut away some of the layers so you have just 1 layer of fabric, refold the fabric so that it fits around the hinge and secure with staples.

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Once I attached the lid to the toy box, I wanted to add a little more detail so I picked up some metal T strap and L strap angles , spray painted them black and attached them at each corner for a little industrial touch.

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That’s it! Totally customizable to your color and design! Just change paint color, fabric, spray paint and done 🙂

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DIY Chalkboard Sign

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Confession…I love chalkboards. Or, I love creating cute little works of art on chalkboards. Weird, I know. I have created some fun chalkboard signs for my mom’s business and thought it was time I have one in my home. I created a new photo gallery wall in our living room and took down the old gallery wall which was hanging in this space. It’s kind of an awkward spot. You enter our home into a foyer with a vaulted ceiling with the living room, dining room and kitchen to the left but you don’t really see those rooms until you round the corner. As you turn the corner, you step up 4 stairs into the living area and this wall is right in front of you.

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Not only is it an awkward spot, but the wall itself is a bit awkward as well. It is essentially a square in the center of our upstairs area. On the left of it is our living room and on the right is our dining room and kitchen. And because of the light switches and thermostat, the placement of anything you put on the wall either has to be really high or really low. Which is the reason I wanted to move the gallery wall, because the photos were up so high, you never really saw them very well. Once I completed this sign, I loved it in this space but still felt like the wall needed something on the lower half too. I think a thin sofa table up against the wall could possibly look good. However, very shortly there will be a DIY baby gate at the top of those stairs…hint hint at a future post…that will visually cover that space as you walk up toward the wall so I will most likely leave it as is until after the gate is up.

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The great thing about this sign is that the size is completely customizable for your space if you use the same project boards that I used from Lowe’s. They come in multiple sizes, thicknesses and made from different types of wood. For my space, I used a stain grade pine panel that is 3/4″ thick x 24″ tall x 36″ wide. Unfortunately, I can’t find these pine panels on their website anymore but they are usually kept in the lumber area, near the wood trim section.

Supplies
stain grade pine panel 3/4″ x 24″ x 36″
1″ x 2″ x 4′ pine board (for trim)
table saw or miter box (for cutting trim)
wood glue
1 1/2″ brad nails and nail gun
wood filler
220-grit sandpaper
chalkboard paint
stain or chalk paint for trim (I used Minwax stain in Dark Walnut)
chalk

Step 1: Cut your trim

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Lay your project board down and cut a piece of trim for each side. Now, you can just do straight edge cuts on your trim instead of angled miter cuts. If you have a table saw and can do miter cuts easily, then I say go for it. If you are trying to do it with a miter box and hand saw, probably not worth all the effort. At least not with the wood that I used for the trim, because it is not soft and would not be easy to cut through with a hand saw. So, if you are doing a straight edge, 90° cut with a jigsaw, simply cut the top and bottom pieces first, attach them with the wood glue and nails, as shown in step 3, and then measure and cut the side pieces. If you are doing a mitered angle cut, I measured one side at a time and as I measured the next side, I held the previous side in place to make sure I had a proper measurement and snug fit at each corner.

Step 2: Paint

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I know it might seem a little backwards to paint first and then assemble, and you don’t have to do it this way, especially because if you use wood filer to seal the corners on the trim, you’ll have to touch that up anyway. However, I didn’t want to deal with having to be super careful to not get the chalkboard paint on the trim once it was assembled so it just seemed easy and must faster to paint the pieces beforehand. Like I mentioned above, I used this chalkboard paint for the main board (2 coats) and Minwax stain in Dark Walnut for the trim (1 coat wiped on with a cloth).

Step 3: Attach trim to chalkboard

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Lay a piece of trim down on it’s thicker edge, add a thin line of wood glue to the edge that will attach to the chalkboard. Make sure the edges of your trim are flush with the chalkboard or the corner on each end and attach the trim using 1 1/2″ brad nails and a nail gun

Step 4: Finish corners with wood filler

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Use a little wood filler at each corner to fill in any gap between the trim boards. Once it is dry, use 220-grit sandpaper to buff the wood filler smooth and touch up with whichever stain or paint you used.

Step 5: Chalk art fun!

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Now you get to change up your wall décor as often as you want, and the great thing about chalk…if you don’t like it, you can wipe it off and do it again! I get a lot of my chalkboard inspo from Pinterest. Just type in chalkboard art and there you go. Some are way more intricate than others so just start with something simple and each time you can get a little more brave 🙂 I also added this little faux fern garland to the top for a little something extra because I felt like the wall was still a little naked.

Tips for creating chalkboard art
1. Use your chalk to divide you board into 4 equal sections, lightly draw a faint line down the middle of the board both vertically and horizontally. Whatever picture you are using as your inspiration, visualize it in 4 sections just like your board. This will help you with placement of each word or picture in relation to everything else.
2. Start from the center and work your way out. I started this board with “hello” and the sun, and then followed with each line and did the arrows last. It was easy to figure out the placement for the most central word and then look at how each word or object is placed in relation to that central word.
3. Sketch it out first. I do a very rough, very light-handed sketch of each word to make sure I like the placement and the size before coloring it in darker or finalizing it. Keep a wet rag on hand to wipe away sketch marks that don’t blend in or are outside the lines of your final word. This works especially well for cursive words because, for reals….my cursive ain’t pretty! Unless I go VERY slowly and sketch it first.
Have fun!!

DIY Herb Garden

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I’ve wanted to have a vegetable garden for quite some time now. Lack of time is what stopped me before. Now that I have some (little) time on my hands, I thought this might be a good time to give it a shot. I waited a bit it to long though to work out all the plans for a full vegetable garden (building beds, planning what to plant and when, etc.) plus, I’m terrible at keeping plants alive (they need water, I’m not so good at remembering to give it to them) so, I thought an herb garden would be a safe place to start. So far so good, granted, it’s only been about a week, but we’re off to a good start.

I have a feeling the fact that I’m getting something out of keeping these plants alive, i.e. herbs for my cooking, is going to help me stay on track because so far I’m super excited about this little gem on my back deck. I’ve already used some of the herbs a couple of times and there is something very satisfying about walking out the back door and snipping off a few sprigs or leaves of whatever I need. Not to mention, so much less waste! I can’t tell you how often I buy a full bunch of parsley or cilantro and only need a couple tablespoons. The rest always ends up going to waste. Now I can just take what I need.

When I started making plans for the herb garden, I was on Pinterest looking for different planter ideas. There are tons of great ideas, for both indoor and outdoor, however many of them required building the planters. Not that I’m against building something…obviously…but the thought of building a planter then having to plant all the plants somehow seemed like a bit too much, especially for something that may or may not be dead by the end of summer. I wanted to keep this as simple as possible in case the inevitable happens. So, I started looking for planters that held multiple pots and remembered I had seen this one a few weeks prior.

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This is the Socker Plant Stand from Ikea, it holds 13 4″ pots and stands just over 5′ tall. The stand can pivot to be positioned at an angle or opened up completely and be straight from end to end. It comes in white or grey (which to me looks more like black in person). Unfortunately, this piece is not available online (sorry guys!) but can be picked up in store if you have an Ikea nearby. I chose these galvanized pots to complete the simple look I was going for.

The first thing I learned about container gardening while doing my research, is that your containers need to have good drainage. The galvanized pots I chose did not have any drainage holes, of course. Now, you could get around this by putting rocks in the bottom of the pot but these are small pots and I knew it would be pretty easy to just drill some holes in bottom. I used a 5/8″ drill bit and drilled 4 holes in each pot. You want the holes to be big enough that bark or larger chunks in the potting soil aren’t going to plug up the holes but small enough that soil isn’t going to easily flow out when watered I made sure to pot one plant and water to see that it worked well before drilling holes into the other 12 pots.

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The herb plants that I picked up were from Home Depot and they really make it super easy to plant. They are grown by Bonnie Plants, in biodegradable “pots” that can literally just be dropped into your container. Simply cut off the plastic liner around the top of the pot…

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The second thing I learned when researching container gardens is that you want to use a Potting Mix and NOT a Potting Soil. The reason being that potting mix is lighter weight, has fertilizer mixed in, promotes better drainage and absorbs moisture in the best way. Fill the bottom of your container with about an inch of soil…

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Peel the bottom of the biodegradable pot off the plant to allow the roots out. Place the plant in your container and fill remaining space with soil.

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I used a mixture of different herbs, just based on what I use more when cooking. Here is my assortment:
3 Cilantro
2 Parsley
2 Mint
2 Thyme
1 Sage
1 Rosemary
1 Oregano
1 Basil
I cook a lot with Cilantro so I wanted a few of those. Looking at it now, I should have done an additional Parsley because I’ve already used those plants a lot, but I only had 13 spots. I’ll have to see what happens throughout the season and adjust for next year. But, if this goes well, maybe my herb garden will be MUCH bigger next year 🙂

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To finish off, I made little “signs” for each pot to label which herb it held. I used new popsicle sticks (which you can get at a craft store year round or most grocery stores during summer months), dipped about 3/4 in black chalkboard paint, laid them on wax paper to dry and then used a white paint marker to write the name of the herb.

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I’m seriously so excited about this little addition to my yard. I’m already saving money at the grocery store and wasting less! I’ll keep you all updated on whether or not I can develop some green thumbs 🙂

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DIY Floating Shelves

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I am so excited to FINALLY share this project with you all! I have been working on it for what feels like forever. Wait…you mean…having a baby will drastically change the amount of time in the day you have to accomplish things?!?! Case in point, I’ve been trying to write this blog post for 3 days now 🙂

When I started placing the furniture in the nursery, I knew I wanted this corner to be the “play” corner or the area for all the toys. Landon already owns quite a few books so a book shelf seemed like the way to go but I also wanted room for some sort of toy box (a post on that to come in the future) so shelves up on the wall were necessary for space. Enter the DIY Floating Shelves from Shanty 2 Chic. If you haven’t checked out their site before and you enjoy DIY building, check them out. If you’ve ever searched for DIY building projects on Pinterest, chances are you’ve come across some of their work. Their projects are always really well explained and the plans are very detailed.

I did make some adjustments to the original plans because the plans called shelves that were 3.5′ in either direction and I only had room for 2′. So, my plans are for 2′ long corner shelves and the materials listed are enough for 3 shelves. If you follow the plans on Shanty 2 Chic, their plans are for 3.5′ shelves and the materials listed are for 1 shelf so make sure you double or triple the amount of wood depending on how many shelves you want.

So, here we go…step by step 🙂

Supplies
NOTE: Before purchasing the wood, see the note in step 6 regarding the 2×4 and 1×6 boards

3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
2 – 1/4″ x 24″ x 48″ plywood
2 – 1″ x 10″ x 8′
2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′
kreg jig for pocket holes
drill
2 1/2″ pocket screws
nail gun
1 1/4″ brad nails
3″ screws (torx or dry wall, whatever you prefer, these will be to screws the support boards to the wall and into a stud)
stud finder
wood glue
paint
hardware (for decorative purposes, I’ll show you what I used when I get to that part below)

Step 1: You will need to determine the height placement of each shelf. You want to think about what you are going to put on the shelves and how much space you need in between each one. I wanted my shelves to take up the majority of the corner and knew I was going to be putting some taller items and books on them so here are the measurements I used…
Floor to ceiling, the room is 96″ tall. Each shelf is approximately 4.5″ tall. Based on that, I measured out equal spacing from ceiling to the top shelf, between each shelf, and from bottom shelf to the floor, which was 20.5″.
Ceiling
20.5″
Shelf #1: 4.5″
20.5″
Shelf #2: 4.5″
20.5″
Shelf #3: 4.5″
20.5″
Floor

You will also want to locate the studs in your wall and mark those as well as you will drill each wall cleat directly into a stud.

Step 2: Build your wall cleats.
Using the 2″ x 4″ x 8′, make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 2′ (long wall cleat)
3 pieces @ 1′ 10 1/2″ (short wall cleat)
12 pieces @ 7 5/8″ (cleat braces)

When constructing each wall cleat, you will use one long wall cleat, one short wall cleat and 4 cleat braces, 2 1/2″ pocket screws and wood glue.
Using a kreg jig, drill for 2 1/2″ pocket screws into one end of each cleat brace then attach the cleat braces to the cleats as shown. I didn’t measure the placement of the cleat braces, just lined up the wall cleats (long wall cleat against the corner, short wall cleat against the long wall cleat) and then marked where the cleat braces should go so that they just met each other at the corner edge. The other two cleat braces went at the opposite ends of the wall cleats.

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Step 3: Attach wall cleats to the wall
Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the 3″ screws. Line up a wall cleat where you want it and drill a pilot hold into the wall cleat directly over the stud, check for level. Using the 3″ screws, attach the wall cleat to the wall in at least 2 different points.

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Step 4: Attach bottom panels to braces
You are basically going to wrap the braces in wood to build out your shelf. Using the 1/4″ plywood, make the following cuts (I made the cuts at home but if you don’t have a saw, you can ask some in the lumber department to make the cuts for you)
3 pieces @ 23 1/4″ x 9 1/4″ (long bottom panel)
3 pieces @ 14″ x 9 1/4″ (short bottom panel)
Use a wood glue, a nail gun and 1/4″ brad nails to attach 1 long bottom panel and 1 short bottom panel to each set of braces.

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Step 5: Attach top panel to braces
Using the 1″ x 10″ x 8′ make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 23 1/4″ (long top panel)
3 pieces @ 14″ (short top panel)
Attach 1 long top panel and 1 short top panel to each set of braces using wood glue, 1 1/4″ finish nails and a nail gun.

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Step 6: Attach the side trim
Using the 1″ x 6″ x 8′ make the following cuts
6 pieces @ 4 1/2″ x 9 1/4″ (side front trim)
NOTE: Because 2×4 are used for the wall cleats, it requires the front and side trim to be only 4 1/2″ wide which is not a width you can buy and will have to rip the board down to 4 1/2″. Again, you can have them do it for you in the lumber department. If you have a table saw at home then you can do it yourself. The other option would be to use 2″ x 3″ for the walls cleats instead of 2″ x 4″. By using 2″ x 3″, you will not need to alter the width of the 1″ x 6″ boards.
Attach side front trim pieces using the same method, wood glue, a nail gun and 1 1/4″ finish nails.

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Step 7: Attach front trim pieces
Using the remaining 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards, make the following cuts
3 pieces @ 14 3/4″ x 4 1/2″
3 pieces @ 14″ x 4 1/2″
Attach using the same method, wood glue, a nail gun and 1 1/4″ finish nails

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Step 8: Finish with paint and decorate!
I used wood filler to fill in nail holes and the seams. Once dried, I went over the wood filler with 180 grit sand paper to smooth it out.

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I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in A La Mode to finish the shelves, topped with clear wax, and sanded the edges for a roughed up look.

Finally, I added some hardware to the corners to give the shelves a bit of an industrial look to compliment some of the other pieces in the nursery.

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I used metal corner braces similar to these from Lowes, and furniture tacks to attach them, spray painted all the pieces with black matte finish spray paint and roughed them up with some sand paper before attaching.

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That’s that! Then I decorated 🙂

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DIY Blanket Ladder

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Can we talk about the LIFE-CHANGING discovery I made a couple weeks ago. It was an average night, we had just eaten dinner and were sitting on the couch when the inevitable conversation came up…”Did you get anything for dessert?” my husband asks…
I hadn’t…fail.
Me: “No, but there is still vanilla ice cream in the freezer from Thanksgiving pie”
Husband: “Do we have anything to put on it?”
In case you can’t tell, I’m not good at keeping my fridge/pantry/cupboards stocked with the basics. I’m the type who goes to the store and buys just what I need for that nights dinner.
Me: “There are some leftover chocolate chips in the cupboard…”
Husband: “Can you melt them?”
We have really interesting conversations 🙂
I proceed to melt the leftover chocolate chips, dish up some ice cream and then drizzle the chocolate on top. Basic, right?
Umm…it hardened pretty quickly just like magic shell, but I hadn’t added anything to it! Is this normal?!?! Mic drop! I was so excited!! That’s the easiest dessert ever!
I’m not sure why I was so excited, apparently it doesn’t take much these days. Anyway, I was pretty stoked about this discovery, and please don’t burst my bubble if I’m like 10 years late to the party and you all knew this fact long ago.

You may recognize this blanket ladder from a couple years ago if you’ve been following me from the start…wow, that’s crazy, that I’ve been at this blogging thing for a couple years now! Since my time is a bit preoccupied these days and I haven’t had time to complete any new projects recently, I thought I’d repost one of my faves and one of the easiest, who knows, maybe you know someone that this would make a great holiday gift for. Or maybe you just want one for yourself. Either way, this whole project took me less than hour from constructing to stained.

Supplies
2 2×4 @ 8ft
1 2×6 @ 8ft
2″ wood screws
skill saw
kreg jig
drill

1. Use your skill saw to make the following cuts
2 2×4 cut to 5ft each
4 2×6 cut to 17in each

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2. Use your kreg jig to drill 4 pocket holes (2 on each end) into the 4 2×6 pieces for 2″ wood screws

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3. Lay one of the 2x4s on flat, level ground. The left side of the 2×4 will be the front of your ladder. Measure and mark every 12″ along the front of the ladder where your rungs will sit. Take one of the 2x6s and set it on the 2×4, turned slightly diagonal, so that the bottom of the 2×6 is even with the front of your ladder and the top of the 2×6 is even with the back of the ladder. Attach with 2″ wood screws.

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4. Continue with the other 3 2x6s at each of the 12″ marks.

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5. Once you’ve attached all 2x6s, measure and mark every 12″ on the other 2×4, lay it on flat, level ground and turn the ladder over onto the 2×4 so that the rungs meet up with the opposite side and attach with 2″ wood screws.

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Easy peasy! Now paint or stain to your desired color, let dry and add blankets!

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DIY Greenery Crown

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We had our maternity photos done 2 weeks ago and I am beyond thrilled with how they turned out! Of course, they were shot by my good friend, Janine, of Janine Soltman Photography, and we shot them at Kruger’s Farm on Sauvie Island. I will do a full post of all the gorgeous photos soon, but this post is all about the eucalyptus crown that I made and wore for some of the photos. I tend to see things on Pinterest and get these ideas in my head of what I want. I ended up not wearing the crown for most of the shoot but I did love how it turned out. Using eucalyptus made the crown pretty big and full, if you wanted a thinner and not so “drapey” look (drapey…is that a thing?) you could easily substitute different greenery and you can add in flowers as well. The possibilities are endless!

Supplies
greenery or flowers of your choice
green floral tape
24 gauge floral wire
scissors
ribbon of your choice

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Step 1: Use the wire to create a circular crown, measuring it to the head of whoever is going to wear it. Don’t measure it too tight as it will get a bit tighter after adding greens, flowers and tape. Layer the wire 3 times, cut the wire and twist loose end around the crown to secure the wire in place. Then use floral tape to secure this area of the crown to maintain the correct size. Note: If you haven’t used floral tape, it is not a normal sticky tape. This is a paper tape that sticks to itself when it is stretched and pressed together.

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Step 2: Begin to build the crown. Cut small pieces of greenery or flowers, with the stem being about 1 1/2″ long. Use one piece of greenery or flower along the wire crown, hold stem with one hand and attach with floral tape with the other hand. Wrap the floral tape until the length of the stem is covered. Choose your next stem, lay it in place to that the bloom or leaves sit where you want it to and repeat wrapping the stem to the wire until it is covered. I alternated a stem of leaves and stem of buds to get the mixed and layered look.

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Continue adding greens or florals until the entire crown is covered. When you get towards the end, you will have to be a bit careful to attach the tape in between some of the first stems you attached. Go slowly so you don’t break any stems and weave the tape in between.

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Step 3: If you’d like, you can finish the look by adding ribbons to the back of the crown. Depending on what greens or florals used, this could look too busy but I simply tied them in one spot so it is easy to change your mind and remove the ribbons if you end up not liking it.

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I used a basic ivory lace ribbon and an ivory sheer chiffon ribbon and cut 2 long strips of each. I very simply, tied them in a single knot on the back side (or what would become the back side) of the crown. Once all pieces of ribbon are attached, cut the ribbon at different lengths to give it some texture.

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DIY Spa Bathtub Tray

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I’ve been wanting to do this project for a while. Especially because I’ve been spending so much more time in the bathtub these last few months. I wanted the spa-like relaxation but, truth be told, I also wanted a place to set my laptop so I could get some blog work done while I’m unwinding. And, after baby comes, it’ll be a handy place to set my wine glass too…can’t wait for wine again!

This project was SO quick and easy. I think it took maybe an hour total. It should be pretty easy to customize it to your own bathtub since the measurements are so minimal.

Supplies
Pine Project Board
(To find the size that best fits your bathtub, you’ll need to measure across the top of your tub and keep in mind you’ll need a few extra inches in length for it to hang over to attach some “feet” to help hold it in place. As far as the width, that can just be your preference. I used a 1″ thick x 12″ wide x 48″ long board, linked above. I wanted plenty of width for my laptop as well as all the pretty bath supplies I was about to buy)
1×2 pine board
(This is for the feet, the length you need will depend on how wide you main plank board is. Example, my board was 12″ wide so I needed 24″ of 1″x2″ board to trim out the sides of my tray)
handles
(You don’t have to add handles to your tray but it’s a nice decorative touch. You can get simple drawer pulls at any hardware store or if you want something with a little more style, World Market, Hobby Lobby and Anthropologie are great places to look. I got mine at Anthropologie and linked them above)
jigsaw
wood glue
1 1/4″ finish nails
measuring tape
pencil
drill and drill bits (if you are adding handles)
paint color of your choice

Step 1: Measure the exact width of your plank board and cut 2 pieces of the 1×2 pine board to that length

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Step 2: Lay your pine board across the top of your bathtub, place one of the cut 1×2 pieces up against one side of the tub, flush with the edge of the pine board. Hold the pine board in place, hold a piece of 1×2 against the side of the tub (on the opposite side) then use a pencil the mark a cut line on the pine board. Cut the pine board along the cut line.
Step 3: Attach the 1×2 “feet” to the pine board, flush with the edges using wood glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails on the underside.

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Step 4: Drill holes for handles. Choose a drill bit that is just slightly larger than the screws on your handles. Choose the location for your handles, I placed mine so they would sit just inside the edge of the tub.

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Step 5: Paint in color of your choice and distress. I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in A La Mode then sanded the edges slightly with 150 grit sandpaper.
Step 6: place across your tub and add all your favorite bath supplies

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I’ve always loved Anthropologie but lately I’ve been extra obsessed with all their home décor, especially their candles and giftable items. I knew they had a cute little bath & body care area so I decided to look there to stock up on supplies for this project. The brands are a little spendier than say Target, however the packaging, quality and scents are incredible and well worth the money for this type of thing…in my opinion. Here are links to all the products I purchase…

Barr-Co Original Scent Bath Salts
Barr-Co Bubble Elixir
Mediterranean Sea Silk Sponge
Baudelaire Cedar Bath Brush
Voluspa Glass Maison Candle in Bourbon Vanille

Hope you enjoy your swanky spa space as much as I’m enjoying mine!

DIY Vintage Scoreboard

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Nesting has officially set in…I’m feeling to pressure of the timeline and that this little munchkin is only 14 weeks away. Man…when I write it down like that, it seems even closer! I really haven’t done much in the nursery yet other than getting the crib, a light fixture (which is currently sitting on the floor) and some wood blinds (also not installed, still in the box). Next big focuses are the closet and changing table before I really start to decorate. I have been trying to wait until after all the baby showers. Yes, I said “all the baby showers”. This is one lucky little baby, there are 3 showers lined up over the next 4 weeks to help celebrate him. I’ve been holding myself back from buying too much until after the showers but it’s getting so hard. I just want to start buying stuff off my own registry and feel settled in the room and ready!!

As you might be able to tell from this project, we are going with a vintage sports theme in the nursery. I have never been big on themes so it will be subtle with just a few sports touches, we’ll see how it evolves throughout the decorating process. One thing I did know, I wanted a vintage looking scoreboard hanging somewhere in the room after seeing some online. This is what I came  up with. I didn’t map out the measurements beforehand and it wasn’t big enough for what I initially had planned (a baseball scoreboard that had 5 lines of writing and numbers) but I quickly decided that wasn’t going to fit. The design changed a bit as I started painting the words, especially after writing the first line so big…Landon Stadium…anyone catch on there? 🙂

I’m thinking this will hang above the crib and I’m so excited to see how it looks with the crib bedding I picked out!!

Supplies
1″ x 24″ x 48″ stain grade pine panel
3 1″ x 2″ x 4′ pine board
furniture nails (color or finish of your choice)
3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ wood rectangles
paint colors of your choice (see below to find my choices)
paint brushes, one medium for overall color, one small for lettering
120 grit sand paper
wood glue
1 1/4″ finish nails
measuring tape
pencil
jigsaw

Step 1:
I started with this pine panel and 3 of the 4 foot pine boards for the trim

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Step 2:
Paint the pine panel with your base color. I used Heirloom Traditions Chalk Paint in Naval. You don’t need to get the edges perfectly as these will be covered by the trim board in step 3. After painting the pine panel, I painted the inside edge of the trim boards with my paint trim color, Heirloom Traditions Chalk Paint in A La Mode, before attaching the trim boards to I didn’t have to worry about painting the edge next to the blue once it was already attached.

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Step 3:
Measure one long edge of the pine panel from end to end and cut 1 trim board to that length. Attach the trim board using wood glue and 1 1/4″ finish nails making sure the edges are flush. Do the same on the opposite long edge. Now measure the distance exactly between the 2 trim boards on the shorter edge and cut the trim board to fit snug between them. Do the same on the opposite short edge. All edges should be flush and smooth. Once attached, you can finish painting the front and outside edges of the trim.

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Step 4:
Paint the wood rectangles with the paint of your choice. I used Valspar Chalkboard Paint to create a vintage chalkboard look. Once dried, I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand and rough up the edges and front of each square.

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Step 5:
Distress the scoreboard and hand paint letters and numbers! I wanted the base of the scoreboard to look a bit weathered. On the main panel, over the blue I used Heirloom Traditions Patina with a dry brush. Using a tiny bit of patina in the lid of the paint jar, a paint brush and a dry cloth, lightly tap the paint brush in the patina, then dab the brush on the dry cloth before lightly brushing it on the wood surface. Using another dry cloth, blend the patina by rubbing the cloth over the wood surface.
On the white trim edges, I used Heirloom Traditions Soft Wax in Muddy Pond to create a worn look. After applying the wax with a dry brush, I used 120 grit sandpaper to sand the surface and edges.
Finally, I hand painted the lettering on the scoreboard and the numbers on the wood squares using A La Mode and 1/2″ flat paint brush. I decided how many rows of lettering I wanted, measured the whole panel and used a pencil to draw lines for each row. I penciled in the letters for a visual before I started so I had an idea of spacing but other than that just kind of winged it. I wanted it to look raw and natural so don’t worry too much about the letters looking perfect. If you need to, you can always use a stencil.

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Step 6:
Attach the wood squares using the furniture nails. There are many different colors and finishes available in these at Lowe’s. I chose the Nickle finish. I also used the Muddy Pond soft wax over all the lettering and numbering, then went over each with the sandpaper one more time to give the letters and numbers a faded look.

Also, sidenote…my crib is from Wayfair.com. And I am OBSESSED! I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted in White…of course…so I bought this Viv + Rae Rocco Kokopelli Convertible Crib, painted it white and distressed it. I love the shutter look on the end panels!! And it was on CRAZY sale for only $177!

Can’t wait to get the part of the nursery all put together!! I’ll share photos as they come 🙂 Happy Friday everyone!

DIY Flower Basket Stand

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Happy belated Mother’s Day to all the amazing, hard-working mamas out there! I hope you all enjoyed a day of relaxation, pampering and spending quality time with your kiddos.

I started this project as something completely different…I was searching for DIY floor lamp ideas and came across a flower pot stand idea on Pinterest instead. My goal was to make it and post the instructions in time for you all to make it yourself, possibly for a Mother’s Day gift, however, my morning sickness got in the way 😦

I’m at 16 weeks now and my mornings are getting more and more difficult by the day. I wake up every single morning with a headache that has been lasting about 2 hours before I get rid of it enough to function and for the last couple days, intense joint pain in my hips is actually waking me up early in the morning. Anyone else have this? I feel like it’s so early to be having hip/joint pain already. My hope is that I just pushed myself a bit too hard with all the retail chaos of Mother’s Day shopping. I was running around quite a bit more than usual from Friday-Sunday. I used my pregnancy pillow last night and for the first time, woke up today without a headache! Woohoo!! (This could also be because I ate a very late dinner) However, the pillow did nothing for the joint pain. Let’s hope taking it easy for few days will help.

So this flower basket stand was super easy, it’s made out of an old floor lamp and a metal hanging basket. And other than dry time for the spray paint, I think the whole thing took me an hour to put together!

Supplies
old floor lamp
drill and drill bits
block of 1×6″ scrap wood
1″ self drilling screws
20″ metal hanging basket with fiber liner (remove hanging chains from basket)
a few inches 1/2″ copper plated steel tab tape
3/4″ self drilling screws
spray paint in color of your choice
potting soil and plants of your choice

Step 1:
I started with this lamp that I got for $20 at a thrift store

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Step 2:
Remove the glass bowl, light bulb and electrical fixture from the lamp. (The electrical fixture should come out by unscrewing it from the base and you’ll be able to pull a bit of the cord out throught the top of the lamp). Using wire cutters, cut the electrical cord away from the electrical fixture. You should now be able to pull the electrical cord from the  bottom of the lamp until it is completly removed.

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Step 3:
Using a drill and a drill bit just slightly larger than the threaded post of your screws, you will drill a hole on 4 sides at the top of the lamp post, holes should be evenly spaced apart. (Note: the larger hole is from the lamp switch, not from drilling)

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Step 4:
Using a piece of scrap wood (mine was a piece of 1×6 board but to about 8″), turn the lamp post upside down and center it on the scrap wood. Attach the lamp post to the wood using 1″ self drilling screws. You may want a helper for this step as the lamp post may not sit evenly and stay upright while you are drilling.

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Step 5:
Using the copper plated steel tab tape, you will attach the wire hanging basket to the wood. Turn the post back over so it is standing upright, scrap wood facing up. Set the wire basket on top of the wood, centered. Cut a piece of tab tape long enough to weave through some of the basket wires and still attached the tab tape to the wood with 3/4″ self drilling screws. As you are attaching the tab tape, you should be pulling it or holding it down tightly so the basket is secure and not loose enough to move.

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Step 6:
Use your spray paint to paint the lamp base, wood and hardware in your desired color and allow to dry according to directions on the can. Once dried, add the fiber liner to the metal basket.

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Step 7:
Plant your basket!! Again, be aware that your basket stand may be top heavy. Mine was a bit unsteady so I was very careful when planting and because it was so tall (mine stands about 7 feet tall without plants), I had to plant it while standing  a few stairs above the stand. I was also worried about the stand blowing over in the wind so I used wired to attach the stand to a post on my deck to hold it in place.

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I used an ornamental grass, 3 geraniums and 3 bacopa plants to dress up my basket, as well as an outdoor flat black spray paint on the base. I love this planter so much, I think I’m going to make a few others to match it!

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