Inspired by…black & white

We are going on hour 12 of baby sleep! He woke up at 5:45 to eat, but other than that, has been out since 9pm last night 🙂 I’ve been doing a little trial and error as far as sleep routines go and we may have found a good balance yesterday. I’ll keep it going for a few days and report back if continues to be this successful.

I’ve been having trouble finding inspiration and getting projects done these days, mostly due to lack of time to just sit around surfing Pinterest or having an extended period of time to accomplish anything. I started my first building project since Landon was born about a week ago and, so far, I’ve only completed step 1. Insert face palm emoji here. I think I need to learn to let go a bit, especially the expectation of always having a clean house. I wake up when baby wakes up. Take a shower and get ready for the day during nap #1. Pick up the house, do dishes and laundry and check emails, Insta and Facebook during #2. Run errands during nap #3. By this time it’s usually 2 or 3pm and it leaves 1 or 2 more naps, one of which is usually spent getting dinner ready. This 12 hour sleeping situation could really help me out if I just stay awake after that 5 or 6am feeding, so, Landon…let’s keep this up…okay?

I am excited to share my first building project in a long time with you guys! I am building floating corner shelves in the nursery. They are actually pretty easy and are such a great way to fill space in a functional way in those awkward corners that you never know what to do with. Anyway, until then, I thought I’d hold you over with some inspiration. I’m loving the combination and contrast of black and white right now. I still LOVE all white neutrals but I really like to add black (especially wrought iron) or wood accents.

Enjoy!

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DIY Faux Floral Centerpiece

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I have been waiting and waiting and waiting for my Magnolia Market purchases to show up and THEY FINALLY ARRIVED!! I ordered 5 of these faux paper white bulbs as well as the faux magnolia leaf wreath that I hung on my wooden spool clock.

I think by now, you all know that I don’t do real plants anymore. I just can’t seem to keep them alive, so why waste the money? So now, I’m constantly on the hunt for authentic looking faux florals and plants to liven up my home. I had seen Joanna Gaines use these paper white bulbs on a few episodes of Fixer Upper so I went in search of where to buy them. What do you know, they are from Magnolia Market. Except now I have a big problem. I want everything that they sell!

Supplies
planter box
dry floral foam
faux floral bulbs
dry moss

1. To create the centerpiece, I started with the DIY Planter Box that I posted last fall.

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2. Next, I used dry floral foam to create a base to stick the bulbs in. You don’t need to glue to floral foam down, just cut it with a knife to the size of your planter  box. I would also leave a little space on the sides as well as make sure the foam sits below the top edge of the box, that way your moss covering won’t be overflowing and can squish into the sides to stay in place a bit.

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3. These are the faux paper white bulbs I used from Magnolia Market. They have nice thick stakes on the bottom so you can easily insert them into the floral foam.

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4. So, I stuck the bulbs in the foam and then added the moss around the bulbs, however, learn from my mistakes…if I did it again, I would layer the moss on top of the foam and then insert the bulbs over the moss. This will also help to hold the moss in place a bit. Move the bulb “roots” to the side before you put the bulbs in the foam so that they stick out through the moss.

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And just for fun…a few shots of my new wreath!!

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Room Makeover…Home Bar

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Last week when I was sick, I started re-watching the Gossip Girl series on DVD. It helped pass the 4 days I spent in bed. The problem…now I can’t stop watching episodes…back-to-back-to-back. It is making me completely unproductive. All I’ve gotten accomplish today is eaten 2 meals, watched 4 episodes and styled the new little bar area of our dining room.

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I’ve had this buffet for a few years and wanted to give it an update. There is a new trend in furniture called cerused wood. You use white or light wood filler against a dark stain or paint, cover the surface with filler and wipe off the excess so that the original paint or stain shows through and the wood grain is emphasized by the filler.

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This technique came around in the 1950’s and is coming back in a big way. I sanded the edges to distress the piece a bit and removed the nickel hardware and spray painted it gold.

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I found this cutie little mirrored tray at Homegoods and the even cuter lit “Bar” sign from Michael’s.

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These shelves and brackets are from Lowe’s. The brackets are plain pine wood that I painted with Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in Black Bean, topped with clear wax, then sanded the edges. The shelf is a pre-cut piece of pine that I stained with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The cocktail tools, corkscrew, topper and bottle opener, are from the Nate Berkus collection for Target.

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These birch blocks are some of my favorites. So cute and rustic paired with candles.

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Time for a drink 😉

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DIY Planter Centerpiece

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My first cold of the season…and I am not a happy camper. I hate being sick because it makes me feel so unproductive but I guess it is good for me to just slow down and rest for a while. I took it easy today and threw together this cute little faux planter centerpiece for my dining room farm table.

I got this idea from my mama who makes these little boxes for all her shows, she does them in all different colors, with different knobs and drawer pulls on the end and then puts mason jars with flowers inside. I got these little faux plants from Ikea a couple weeks ago and knew exactly what I wanted to do with them.

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Supplies
1×6 boards (I used leftover cedar fence pickets from another DIY, these have a rough finish but if you want a smooth finish, you can use pine boards)
1 1/2″ finish nails
paint in the color of your choice
knobs or drawer pulls of your choice (if you have a Hobby Lobby near you, they have a GREAT selection)
4″ faux plants (IKEA has a few different options)

1. I didn’t actually measure the length of the planter box. I laid one board on the ground and set the plants on top of it, in a line, and just eyeballed the spot I wanted to cut. I used the first board as a template for the 2 side boards, and attached them to the bottom with nails.

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2. Measure the distance from one edge to the other on one end of the box to determine the cut length for the end boards and attach with nails.

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3. Drill holes in the end of the box for your knobs or drawer pulls, 1 to 2, depending on what you knobs need. Paint your box before you attach your knobs.

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4. As usual, I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in “A la Mode” and then added Heirloom Traditions soft wax in “Muddy Pond” to make the wood a bit more rustic looking. Add you plants and you are all set! You can fill in the space in the box between the plants, if you’d like, with moss or rocks.

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DIY Menu Chalkboard

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I finally bought a fiddle leaf fig tree!!!! I have been wanting one of these for SO long but have been nervous to pull the trigger because they are spendy and I have what you would call a black thumb as opposed to a green thumb. Now, I didn’t re-pot the plant because as I was driving it home with a giddy smile on my face, my mom texted me and said “is it poisonous for dogs?” Well, crap! It is!! The woman at the plant nursery said it is only toxic if the leaves are ingested and not in a fatal way but that I can return the plant if it makes me nervous. I am going to talk to my vet today but I really hope I don’t have to get rid of my new favorite décor item!

I have also wanted a large chalkboard for my dining room for dinner party menus for quite some time and in this house, I have so much room, I decided to make it happen. I got the idea from my mama, of course, she turns old windows and doors into chalkboards for her store all the time. It is such an easy DIY, anyone can do this.

Supplies
old door or window
sandpaper
paint in color of your choice for the frame
black Chalkboard paint
old handle or hardware to cover the hole from doorknob (if using a door)
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Step 1: This is the door I started with, I wanted on with a beveled edge leading into one large center square with no other design so I could use the entire center space for the chalkboard. I get things like this from Habitat for Humanity Restore, it is a great resource for used EVERYTHING when it comes to the home.
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Step 2: I used Heirloom Traditions chalk paint in A La Mode to paint the edges of the door. I decided to leave the old hinges on the door because they were so covered in old paint that it was going to be such a pain to take them off and because I knew they would be somewhat hidden by the plant where I was placing the door. You leave them on, take them off, add different old hinges to match the door knob, whatever you choose.

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Step 3: Use black chalkboard paint to make your chalkboard, I used Valspar Interior Matte Chalkboard Paint in Black. I’ve used this chalkboard paint before and it works really well, goes on smooth and levels itself out pretty well.

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Step 4: Add your hardware. I got this handle from my mom’s house, whenever I’m there I tend to go shopping in all the knick knacks and unpainted furniture she has waiting to be used. It’s a gold mine there! I’m not sure where she got this one but Hobby Lobby, Anthropology and World Market are great places to find cool old knobs and handles.

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Step 5: Just some basic chalkboard chalk and dream up your perfect dinner party menu. Enjoy and happy Saturday!!

Pillar Candle Chandelier

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We moved into this house and one of the things I loved most was the huge open area off the kitchen where I could create a dining room complete with a farm table for entertaining. The only problem, and something I didn’t want to tackle, there was no overhead electrical in the room! Yes, I will add lamps to the room to brighten it up but you can’t have a gorgeous farm table with no rustic overhead light fixture!! It just felt weird.

This is what I came up with, inspired by the many pillar candle fixtures I’ve seen at so many home retailers.

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 Because there was no overhead electrical and because I didn’t want to attempt fixing that problem, I used battery operated flameless candles. This is a safer option anyway when the candles are overhead and in a not-so-accessible location.

Supplies
1″x12″x48″ Poplar Board
Paint or stain in color of your choice (I used Minwax Dark Walnut)
Drill & 1/2″ Drill Bit
3/8″ Sisal Rope (about 5 feet)
2 ceiling hooks
flameless candles
level

Step 1: Measure in 1 1/2″ on each corner of the poplar board and use the 1/2″ drill bit to drill 4 holes.

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Step 2: Stain or paint you poplar board to the color of your choice. I used Minwax Stain in Dark Walnut. I brushed on 1 coat of color and wiped off the excess stain with an old rag to let the wood grain show through.
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Step 3: While the poplar board dries, attach you ceiling hooks. Determine the area you want your chandelier to hang. From the center, measure out 2 feet on each side, this is where each hook will go. As you screw the hooks into the ceiling, end with the hooks facing away from each other.

Step 4: Cut 2 pieces of rope, each 4 feet long (this length may vary based on how high your ceiling is). Lay your board in front of you, turned horizontally. Feed 1 end of rope #1 through the top right hole of the board. On the underside of the board, tie the rope in a knot so that there is about 1 inch of rope hanging below the knot. Feed the other end of rope #1 through the bottom right hole of the board and make another knot. Repeat on the left side of the board with rope #2. Place the center of each rope on the ceiling hooks and check for level.

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Step 5: Add candles and enjoy!

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Farmhouse Table

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Well, that was an awfully long 2 weeks of blog neglect. The holidays and the craziness of my other job certainly got the best of my time. But, I’m coming back with a bang! My DIY farmhouse table!!!! This is BY FAR my favorite DIY and my most proud moment yet. I’m still a bit in awe that I constructed this table from start to finish, and to be 100% honest, it wasn’t that hard. I’m serious! Keep in mind that this is the second piece of furniture I have attempted to make, so from someone who doesn’t have much experience, I made it happen and taught myself as I went and you can do it too!

Once again, I have to give a shout-out to ana-white.com, which is where I got the furniture plan from. Her plans are so clear and easy to follow, they can turn anyone into a carpenter.

Why did I build my own dining room farmhouse table? Daddy always said, “You have champagne taste on a beer budget”. My dream table is from my favorite home interior company, Restoration Hardware, for $3,000. Could I save the money and eventually buy the table, yes. Was this 1000% more gratifying and do I love it so much more, absolutely! And the best part…are you ready for this…it only cost me $200!!!!!

So, here we go…let’s get started so you can make your own farmhouse table too!

Shopping List
1 2×8 @ 8 feet long
3 2×4 @ 8 feet long
2 2×4 @ 10 feet long
1 2×6 @ 8 feet long
4 2×6 @ 10 feet long
1 1×3 @ 8 feet long
6 1×6 @ 8 feet long
2 1×2 @ 10 feet long
1 1×2 @ 8 feet long
2 2X2 @ 10 feet long
1 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 1/2″ and 3″ wood screws
2″ finish nails
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler

Tools needed
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
kreg jig
drill with drill bits and screwdriver heads
Jigsaw

Notes
-When buying your boards, always look for straight boards. Warped boards will make it difficult to get square joints and corners
-I bought pine and shirring board because I wanted a rustic look. If you are wanting a smoother finish, I suggest using cedar wood. It is more expensive but will give a much cleaner look.
-Work on a flat, clean surface
-Always wipe away excess glue right away as dried glue will not take stain or paint well.
-Finished table will be 106″ long x 30″ tall x 40″ wide
-Instead of a cut list up front, I will give cut instructions in each step. This way you can cut to measure to ensure a good fit at seams and corners. It will seem odd to make the cuts suggested, but trust me, this is to ensure you only buy enough wood needed and waste as little wood as possible.

Step 1: Begin constructing legs
-Using your 3 2×4 @ 8 feet and your 2 2×4 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
2×4 @ 8 feet #1 – cut 4 pieces @ 21 3/4″; cut 1 piece @ 8 1/8″
2×4 #2 @ 8 feet – cut 2 pieces @ 21 3/4″; cut 2 pieces @ 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #3 @ 8 feet – cut 1 piece @ 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #1 @ 10 feet – cut 1 piece at 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #2 @ 10 feet – cut 1 piece at 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later

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-Lay 1 piece @ 21 3/4″ on a flat surface, using 3″ wood screws and wood glue, secure 1 piece @ 8 1/8″ to each end of the 21 3/4″ piece. Ends should be flush and space between the 8 1/8″ pieces should be 5 1/2″ (enough to fit the 2×6 stretcher between them)
-place a 2nd 21 3/4″ piece on top of the 8 1/8″ pieces and secure with 3″ wood screws and wood glue, ends should be flush.
-repeat 2 times to create 3 posts for table legs

Step 2: Add top & bottom to leg posts
-Using 2 2×6 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 3 pieces @ 34 1/4″ from each 2×6 (6 pieces total)

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-place 1 piece @ 34 1/4″ on top of 1 leg post, making sure the post is centered under the 2×6, attach with 2 3″ wood screws and wood glue (screws should be diagonal from each other, attaching into the corners of the leg post, to keep it from twisting once screwed together)
-turn leg post upside down so that newly attached 2×6 is now the base, attach another 2×6 @ 34 1/4″ to the opposite end
-repeat with other 2 leg posts
Note: In Ana White’s version of the table, she beveled the edges of the 2x6s to create a rounded edge on the legs. I kept mine square because I liked the rustic look of it.

Step 3: Add decorative rounded pieces to legs
-Using 1 2×8 @ 8 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 12 pieces @ 7 1/4″, then make them square by cutting the 8″ side down to 7 1/4″
-to make the arch shape, I measured in 1 inch on the bottom left and top right corners of the square block, then used a large bowl to draw a perfect arch from one corner to the other
-use a jig saw to cut out your arch shape

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I didn’t get a photo of the arch before I attached them…but this should give you an idea of the shape.
To attach the arches to the posts, I pre-drilled holes 1) so the wood wouldn’t split and 2) so I could countersink the screws and fill the holes with wood filler.

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-Use a drill bit that is the same size as the head of your screws and drill a small hole, about 1/4″ deep, just enough for the screw to be below the surface of the wood but DO NOT drill all the way through.
-Once your countersink holes are drilled, attach the arches to the leg posts. There should be 4 arches on each leg post, center the arch on the 2×6 and 2×4 and attach with 2 1/2″ wood screws and wood glue. Fill in holes with wood filler.

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Step 4: Add final layer to top and base of leg posts
Use 2 2×6 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 3 pieces @ 36 1/2″ from each 2×6 (6 pieces total)

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-Attach 1 piece @ 36 1/2″ to the top and bottom of each leg post, long sides should be flush, board should be centered lengthwise on the underside 2×6 with about 1″ overhang on both sides.

Step 5: Add the feet
Use your 1×3 @ 8 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 6 pieces at 5 1/2″, you won’t need the scrap

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-attach the feet to the bottom of each leg base on each end of the 2×6, feet should be flush on outer 3 edges, attach using wood glue and 2″ finish nails.

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Step 6: Add the stretcher for finish your table base!
Use your 2×6 @ 8 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 2×6 @ 8 feet to 90.5″

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-slowly slide one leg post onto the stretcher and center it, add the other leg posts to each end with about 1″ of the stretcher hanging out the end past the post.
-Use a level to make sure you legs are level before attaching the legs to the stretcher. Measure from the center leg to each end leg the ensure it is directly centered.
-Once level and centered, use your drill to create countersink holes on both sides of each leg (holes on each leg should be at different heights so your screws don’t collide)
-Attach stretcher using 3″ wood screws on both sides of legs. Fill in holes with wood filler.

Your table base is finished!! Now on to the table top!

Step 7: Construct the tabletop frame
Use your 2 leftover 2x4s that were originally 10 feet, cut them to 106″
Use your 2 leftover 2x4s that were originally 8 feet, cut 3 pieces to 33″

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-Use your kreg jig to drill pocket holes into both ends on each of the 33″ boards
-Before your secure your frame, be sure you are working on a flat, level surface or your tabletop will come out uneven.
-Lay out the boards for your frame, 106″ boards lengthwise, 33″ boards crosswise with 1 on each end and 1 centered in middle of the frame.
-Secure the frame together with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.

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Step 8: Add tabletop panels
Use your 6 1×6 @ 8 feet, cut each into 2 pieces @ 47 3/4″
-These are the panels that should fit snugly into your tabletop frame. Measure the distance from 1 from board to the next before cutting your 1x6s to ensure a good fit.
-Use your kreg jig to drill pocket holes into both ends of each 1×6 board.
-Attach panels to frame using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws

So, this is the point where I think I got a little too excited to finish the building process and forgot to take photos of the last few steps. Check out Ana White’s page to see her drawings of each step.

Once you finish step 8, you will have 6 panels on each end of the frame for a total of 12 panels.

Step 9: Add first layer of tabletop trim
Use your 2 1x2s @ 10 feet, cut both to 102 1/2″
Use your 1×2 @ 8 feet, cut 2 pieces @ 39 1/2″
-These boards are going to go right on top of the frame but you want to center them on the frame boards so your edges will not be flush. I know this seems odd, just trust me.
-Attach these trim pieces with wood glue and 2″ finish nails

Step 10: Add second layer of tabletop trim
Use your 2 2x2s @ 10 feet, cut both to 103″
Use your 1×2 @ 8 feet, cut 2 pieces @ 40″
-These boards are going to go on top of the first layer of trim, they are going to line up and be flush with the tabletop frame. So trim layer 1 will sit inside the frame and trim layer 2 a bit, this creates depth and a rustic look
-Attach trim layer #2 with wood glue and 3″ wood screws.

Step 11: Last STEP!! Attach table base to table top!
With your tabletop laying upside down on a flat surface, (using 2 people) carefully turn your table base upside down and lift it onto the tabletop. Table base should easily fit centered on the tabletop, with the edges of your table legs sitting on the tabletop frame.
-Use 3″ wood screws to attach table base to tabletop. Placement of screws are on the underside of the top of the leg post, screwed into the table frame.

Done and done!!

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For the stain on the table, I used Minwax Wood Stain in Dark Walnut. I brushed on a few strokes, then wiped off the excess stain with a rag. This is what really let the wood grain show through for a nice rustic look.

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My favorite project to date! I hope you all like it as much as I do!! Now to figure out what I’m going to do for the chairs!

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