Well, that was an awfully long 2 weeks of blog neglect. The holidays and the craziness of my other job certainly got the best of my time. But, I’m coming back with a bang! My DIY farmhouse table!!!! This is BY FAR my favorite DIY and my most proud moment yet. I’m still a bit in awe that I constructed this table from start to finish, and to be 100% honest, it wasn’t that hard. I’m serious! Keep in mind that this is the second piece of furniture I have attempted to make, so from someone who doesn’t have much experience, I made it happen and taught myself as I went and you can do it too!
Once again, I have to give a shout-out to ana-white.com, which is where I got the furniture plan from. Her plans are so clear and easy to follow, they can turn anyone into a carpenter.
Why did I build my own dining room farmhouse table? Daddy always said, “You have champagne taste on a beer budget”. My dream table is from my favorite home interior company, Restoration Hardware, for $3,000. Could I save the money and eventually buy the table, yes. Was this 1000% more gratifying and do I love it so much more, absolutely! And the best part…are you ready for this…it only cost me $200!!!!!
So, here we go…let’s get started so you can make your own farmhouse table too!
1 2×8 @ 8 feet long
3 2×4 @ 8 feet long
2 2×4 @ 10 feet long
1 2×6 @ 8 feet long
4 2×6 @ 10 feet long
1 1×3 @ 8 feet long
6 1×6 @ 8 feet long
2 1×2 @ 10 feet long
1 1×2 @ 8 feet long
2 2X2 @ 10 feet long
1 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 1/2″ and 3″ wood screws
2″ finish nails
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
drill with drill bits and screwdriver heads
-When buying your boards, always look for straight boards. Warped boards will make it difficult to get square joints and corners
-I bought pine and shirring board because I wanted a rustic look. If you are wanting a smoother finish, I suggest using cedar wood. It is more expensive but will give a much cleaner look.
-Work on a flat, clean surface
-Always wipe away excess glue right away as dried glue will not take stain or paint well.
-Finished table will be 106″ long x 30″ tall x 40″ wide
-Instead of a cut list up front, I will give cut instructions in each step. This way you can cut to measure to ensure a good fit at seams and corners. It will seem odd to make the cuts suggested, but trust me, this is to ensure you only buy enough wood needed and waste as little wood as possible.
Step 1: Begin constructing legs
-Using your 3 2×4 @ 8 feet and your 2 2×4 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
2×4 @ 8 feet #1 – cut 4 pieces @ 21 3/4″; cut 1 piece @ 8 1/8″
2×4 #2 @ 8 feet – cut 2 pieces @ 21 3/4″; cut 2 pieces @ 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #3 @ 8 feet – cut 1 piece @ 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #1 @ 10 feet – cut 1 piece at 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
2×4 #2 @ 10 feet – cut 1 piece at 8 1/8″; set scraps aside to use later
-Lay 1 piece @ 21 3/4″ on a flat surface, using 3″ wood screws and wood glue, secure 1 piece @ 8 1/8″ to each end of the 21 3/4″ piece. Ends should be flush and space between the 8 1/8″ pieces should be 5 1/2″ (enough to fit the 2×6 stretcher between them)
-place a 2nd 21 3/4″ piece on top of the 8 1/8″ pieces and secure with 3″ wood screws and wood glue, ends should be flush.
-repeat 2 times to create 3 posts for table legs
Step 2: Add top & bottom to leg posts
-Using 2 2×6 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 3 pieces @ 34 1/4″ from each 2×6 (6 pieces total)
-place 1 piece @ 34 1/4″ on top of 1 leg post, making sure the post is centered under the 2×6, attach with 2 3″ wood screws and wood glue (screws should be diagonal from each other, attaching into the corners of the leg post, to keep it from twisting once screwed together)
-turn leg post upside down so that newly attached 2×6 is now the base, attach another 2×6 @ 34 1/4″ to the opposite end
-repeat with other 2 leg posts
Note: In Ana White’s version of the table, she beveled the edges of the 2x6s to create a rounded edge on the legs. I kept mine square because I liked the rustic look of it.
Step 3: Add decorative rounded pieces to legs
-Using 1 2×8 @ 8 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 12 pieces @ 7 1/4″, then make them square by cutting the 8″ side down to 7 1/4″
-to make the arch shape, I measured in 1 inch on the bottom left and top right corners of the square block, then used a large bowl to draw a perfect arch from one corner to the other
-use a jig saw to cut out your arch shape
I didn’t get a photo of the arch before I attached them…but this should give you an idea of the shape.
To attach the arches to the posts, I pre-drilled holes 1) so the wood wouldn’t split and 2) so I could countersink the screws and fill the holes with wood filler.
-Use a drill bit that is the same size as the head of your screws and drill a small hole, about 1/4″ deep, just enough for the screw to be below the surface of the wood but DO NOT drill all the way through.
-Once your countersink holes are drilled, attach the arches to the leg posts. There should be 4 arches on each leg post, center the arch on the 2×6 and 2×4 and attach with 2 1/2″ wood screws and wood glue. Fill in holes with wood filler.
Step 4: Add final layer to top and base of leg posts
Use 2 2×6 @ 10 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 3 pieces @ 36 1/2″ from each 2×6 (6 pieces total)
Step 5: Add the feet
Use your 1×3 @ 8 feet, make the following cuts:
cut 6 pieces at 5 1/2″, you won’t need the scrap
-slowly slide one leg post onto the stretcher and center it, add the other leg posts to each end with about 1″ of the stretcher hanging out the end past the post.
-Use a level to make sure you legs are level before attaching the legs to the stretcher. Measure from the center leg to each end leg the ensure it is directly centered.
-Once level and centered, use your drill to create countersink holes on both sides of each leg (holes on each leg should be at different heights so your screws don’t collide)
-Attach stretcher using 3″ wood screws on both sides of legs. Fill in holes with wood filler.
Your table base is finished!! Now on to the table top!
Step 7: Construct the tabletop frame
Use your 2 leftover 2x4s that were originally 10 feet, cut them to 106″
Use your 2 leftover 2x4s that were originally 8 feet, cut 3 pieces to 33″
-Use your kreg jig to drill pocket holes into both ends on each of the 33″ boards
-Before your secure your frame, be sure you are working on a flat, level surface or your tabletop will come out uneven.
-Lay out the boards for your frame, 106″ boards lengthwise, 33″ boards crosswise with 1 on each end and 1 centered in middle of the frame.
-Secure the frame together with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
Step 8: Add tabletop panels
Use your 6 1×6 @ 8 feet, cut each into 2 pieces @ 47 3/4″
-These are the panels that should fit snugly into your tabletop frame. Measure the distance from 1 from board to the next before cutting your 1x6s to ensure a good fit.
-Use your kreg jig to drill pocket holes into both ends of each 1×6 board.
-Attach panels to frame using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
So, this is the point where I think I got a little too excited to finish the building process and forgot to take photos of the last few steps. Check out Ana White’s page to see her drawings of each step.
Once you finish step 8, you will have 6 panels on each end of the frame for a total of 12 panels.
Step 9: Add first layer of tabletop trim
Use your 2 1x2s @ 10 feet, cut both to 102 1/2″
Use your 1×2 @ 8 feet, cut 2 pieces @ 39 1/2″
-These boards are going to go right on top of the frame but you want to center them on the frame boards so your edges will not be flush. I know this seems odd, just trust me.
-Attach these trim pieces with wood glue and 2″ finish nails
Step 10: Add second layer of tabletop trim
Use your 2 2x2s @ 10 feet, cut both to 103″
Use your 1×2 @ 8 feet, cut 2 pieces @ 40″
-These boards are going to go on top of the first layer of trim, they are going to line up and be flush with the tabletop frame. So trim layer 1 will sit inside the frame and trim layer 2 a bit, this creates depth and a rustic look
-Attach trim layer #2 with wood glue and 3″ wood screws.
Step 11: Last STEP!! Attach table base to table top!
With your tabletop laying upside down on a flat surface, (using 2 people) carefully turn your table base upside down and lift it onto the tabletop. Table base should easily fit centered on the tabletop, with the edges of your table legs sitting on the tabletop frame.
-Use 3″ wood screws to attach table base to tabletop. Placement of screws are on the underside of the top of the leg post, screwed into the table frame.
Done and done!!
For the stain on the table, I used Minwax Wood Stain in Dark Walnut. I brushed on a few strokes, then wiped off the excess stain with a rag. This is what really let the wood grain show through for a nice rustic look.